Frequently Asked Questions

The first application should be made when your grass starts growing in early spring. Use a high nitrogen fertilizer. It's best to choose a SLOW RELEASE fertilizer which will release nitrogen in small amounts throughout the season. When using a granular slow release lawn fertilizer fewer applications are required. Your second application will be in summer. Finally, apply special late season lawn food in autumn. For all types, apply when your lawn is dry, then water in with irrigation or rainfall. Never feed the lawn when rain is already falling.

Most people know that regular fertilizing produces a lush, attractive lawn to compliment your home. However, fertilizing also aids weed control. Fertilizer helps produce a closely-knit turf which makes it difficult for weeds and moss to compete. Fertilizer also builds resistance to drought and disease.

The three numbers on any type of fertilizer represent the percentage of nitrogen (first number), phosphorous (middle number) and potash (third number). These three nutrients are needed for plant growth. For a lawn, nitrogen and phosphorous are the ESSENTIAL nutrients. Nitrogen contributes to your lawn's lush green colour and stimulates leaf growth. Your lawn will use nitrogen faster than any other nutrient, so when choosing lawn fertilizer, make sure the FIRST number is higher than any other. Your lawn requires nitrogen throughout the spring and summer. Phosphorous builds up your lawn's root system. This nutrient is most important in early spring and autumn. When choosing lawn food for autumn, watch for lower nitrogen and higher phosphorous percentages than the percentages found in the fertilizer you applied in the spring and summer.

Both are effective. Granular fertilizer has a higher concentration of nutrients, therefore fewer applications are required.

A fairy ring is a circle of very dark green grass in your lawn, often accompanied by the growth of mushrooms. The most severe fairy rings also cause bare or moss-ridden patches amid the dark green ring. Most often, fairy rings are caused by organic debris beneath the soil. You can try using a solution of dish soap and water or diluted iron sulphate. If these don't work you'll have to remove the grass and earth along the whole ring. Dig to a depth of at least 1 ft and to a width of 1 ft. beyond the edges of the ring. Fill the hole with clean top soil and apply seed or sod. Dispose of the excavated earth well away from your lawn.

Aeration is the process of creating small holes in your lawn to allow air and water to penetrate beneath the surface. Oxygen and water must reach the roots for a lawn to thrive. When the lawn's surface is compacted, soil particles jam together and prevent oxygen and water from reaching the roots. Aeration is especially important in areas of high foot traffic (ie. a section where children play, a pathway, etc). Look for signs of compaction, such as waterlogging after rain, rapid browning in dry weather, bare patches or moss. In an area of high traffic, your lawn should be aerated once per year. Special aerating equipment can be purchased, but the job can also be done using a simple garden fork. Make sure you drive the spikes into the lawn to a depth of at least 3 inches and leave around 6 inches between each line of holes.

Moss is a symptom, not a cause, of rundown turf. Using a moss killer will eliminate the moss, but the only way to completely control a moss problem is to determine the cause and eliminate it. Moss may be caused by compaction and poor drainage. This can be corrected with yearly aeration. Another cause of moss is underfeeding. Regular applications of lawn food will keep your grass growing strong and thick, making it difficult for moss to compete. Moss can also be caused by high acidity. Applying lime to your turf will reduce acidity. Other causes of moss include cutting too closely and too much shade.

You should check your poinsettia daily by feeling the surface of the soil. If the soil feels wet to the touch, don't water...if it's dry, water thoroughly. Depending on location, expect your poinsettia to require water every 3 to 5 days. Here are two watering tips... 1. Don't let your poinsettia get so dry that it wilts. 2. After watering, don't let your poinsettia sit with water in the saucer or pot cover.

Place your poinsettia in a room with bright natural light, preferably next to a window. The Poinsettia is easily harmed by extreme temperatures. Keep it away from direct heat, exterior doors and drafty areas. IMPORTANT...in cold weather Poinsettias freeze very quickly. When you buy yours from the nursery, carry it straight from your warm car into your home. Never leave it in a cold car.

Fertilize your poinsettia as you would any other house plant. We recommend 20-20-20 every 3 to 4 weeks.

When the bracts (often referred to as the "blooms") begin to wilt and fade, trim the plant back to about 8 or 10 inches. As it grows you may also want to transplant your poinsettia into a larger pot. The result will be a vibrant green house plant that will last for years.

Poinsettias must be forced to turn red for Christmas. The procedure is actually very simple. Starting October 1st, keep your plant in COMPLETE and CONSTANT darkness for 14 hours each day, for 21 consecutive days (3 weeks). For example, at 6:00 pm place your plant in a totally dark closet, then at 8:00 am, return it to a well lit room for the rest of the day. It's very important that the 14 hours of darkness is constant. So, no peeking! Even the slightest bit of light will delay the colour change. Following this procedure, you should see the leaves begin to change colour by the end of the third week. The result is a brilliant red poinsettia, just in time for Christmas.

No. Poinsettias are NOT poisonous. According to The Poinsettia Manual published by Paul Ecke Poinsettias, "(Ohio State University) research indicates that the poinsettias are not harmful to humans and animals, though of course it is not recommended that they should be taken internally".

Annuals are bedding plants which live for one growing season only. The plants that continue to grow in your garden year after year are called Perennials.

When choosing annuals at a nursery, look for good root structure, not blooms. At this early stage, strong roots are more important than the number of buds. Strong roots lead to healthy plants that will form properly and create abundant blooms throughout the summer. To keep your annuals healthy, make sure you water frequently and fertilize regularly.

A good, all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer is 20-20-20. Using 20-20-20 every 2 weeks keeps foliage green, encourages flower development and enhances disease resistance & vigour. Other fertilizers are specially formulated for annuals. Try bi-weekly applications of water soluble 15-3015 on your annuals for super spectacular blooms.

Generally, when planting annuals in a flower bed, plants should be spaced from about 8 to 12 inches apart, depending on the variety. Specific space requirments are usually indicated on tags in the annual packs at the nursery. Make sure you check the tags before planting. Leaving sufficient space between plants is important because it provides air circulation which helps the plant avoid disease, mature to its natural shape and develop its maximum number of blooms. Immediately after planting your beds they will look bare, but don't worry. With room to move annuals grow very quickly.

Pinching off dead flowers (deadheading) will trigger new buds and keep annuals from going to seed. Regular deadheading keeps your annuals blooming profusely throughout their growing season.

Asparagus Fern, Dusty Miller, Mimulus, Pansy, Begonia, Fuchsia, Nemesia, Viola, Browallia, Impatiens, Nicotiana, Coleus, Lobelia, Nierembergia

Celosia, Cosmos, Heliotrope, Portulaca, Cleome, and Gazania, Marigolds.

Celosiam, Gazania, Scaevola, Cosmos, Portulaca, and Verbena.

Dianthus, Pansy, Snapdragon, Dusty Miller, Petunia, and Viola.

Asparagus Fern, Dracaena, Licorice Plant, Snapdragon (hanging) , Bacopa, Fuchsia, Lobelia, Surfinia, Begonia, Geranium, Lotus Vine, Thunbergia, Brachycome, Geranium, Ivy, Million Bells, Verbena, Browallia, Impatiens, Petunia, Vinca Vine, Carnation (hanging), Ivy, Purslane, Wave Petunias, Dahlberg Daisy, Lantana, Scaevola.

Alyssum, Heliotrope, Pansy (white or yellow), Carnation, Nicotiana, Stock

It's best to use a proper hyacinth vase. Fill the vase until the water is about 1/8" below the base of the bulb. Place the vase/bulb in a dark cool place (ie cold storage room in your basement). Keep it there for 8 to 15 weeks. It can be moved into a bright room once the roots are well established and growing in the water and the shoot is about 1 inch long.